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7 Days of Camping and Exploring North of the Grand Canyon

The Arizona Strip and the Parashant are isolated areas North of the Grand Canyon. Far from any Interstate highways, it is as beautiful as it is remote. On this 7 day trip with over 400 miles of driving, we did not encounter any paved roads.

I would have posted this sooner, but the day after I got back home, our house was robbed and my laptop was stolen. The thief broke in though a bathroom window mid-day on a Sunday. My laptop bag was under the desk in the study and my camera bag was on top of the desk. The camera bag had my camera and all the memory cards from this trip and I had not yet backed them up. I was happy he did not steal the camera bag. He probably thought the bag was too small or something. Anyway, my laptop along with my Inmarsat Sabre1 was in my laptop bag and they were gone. If I had to choose between the laptop and the camera bag, I'd pick loosing the laptop. I had recent backups and the laptop was almost 2 years old. The Police were at our front door when we arrived back home, our house alarm had notified them of the break in. I'm sure more would have been stolen if it weren't for the loud siren that sounded once he tripped the alarm's motion detector in our home. The next day the police called and said that they had recovered my laptop bag, without the laptop and my checkbook. The Inmarsat Sabre1 was inside the recovered bag! I'm sure the thief had no idea what is was.

Anyway, after buying a new laptop, reinstalling all the software and restoring my backup I just never got around to posting this trip report.

Here is the map of our October 2008 trip:


October 11th:

Near the Savanic Mine:



We camped the first night at Grand Gulch Mine:



Note: All photos link back to Flickr where you can see a larger version. Five Jeeps and One Land Cruiser.

October 12th. Several in the group realized that they didn't have enough gas for the duration. So they took off to St. George. so we waited for several hours.

We camped on the side of the road and on the morning of October 13th the water I had left out was mostly frozen:

Every night of our trip, except one, the temperature dropped into the teens. In fact, once the sun went down, it was like the door closing on a refrigerator with us inside. We didn't spend much time around the fire most nights. This is one of the few trips I've gone on where I got lots of sleep!

This day's driving really defines for me what I want to do in my vehicle. Visit beautiful remote places and spend at least a week doing it:





We camped the night of October 13th at Copper Mountain Mine:

It was windy and some metal siding on a collapsing building was noisy all night.


A great spot to stop for lunch on October 14th:

You could always fly in and get a great view from the sky:
We camped in the Whitmore area on October 14th within a couple hundred feet of the edge of the Grand Canyon:

The next morning, October 15th, we we took a 1 plus mile hike down to the Colorado River:

On the hike there is this interesting formation of Columnar Basalt (like Devils Postpile) on the side of the canyon:

Our our way north up Whitmore Canyon we visited Pa's Pocket:


Up in the higher elevations, the foliage changes dramatically:

Rock Art:

Toroweep:

Pictographs:


Last campsite the night of October 16th:




Before the trip, I added a 24 gallon auxiliary tank to my Land Cruiser. Without this, I don't know if I would have been able to do this trip. Without it I would have needed to carry 5 jerry cans. The aux tank made it easy to keep the main tank full with the push of a button.

I have a small business and the only way I could have gone on this trip is with portable satellite Internet. It worked every night from inside my tent except one night when we camped in an area thick with trees.

The nights were colder than expected. I learned that it's best to include a big winter coat, knit cap, good gloves and a wool blanket since you never know what weather may happen on a trip. I had most of these on the trip, but a few extra items would have made it more comfortable.

I brought a Colman water heater for showers. It worked perfectly. It was easy to turn off and on the water when soaping up and rinsing off to save water. It was instantly hot every time.

I'm planning on doing more exploring in this area in the years to come.

Portable Satellite Internet

Around a year and a half ago I went on a trip to Death Valley and decided to rent a portable satellite Internet device to use to get some work done at the end of each day. Normally I'd need about an hour to get the most important things done. Owning a small business it's impossible to go away anytime M-F without checking on what is happening with work. It would be nice to be able to take a real vacation, leave town, turn off cell phones, but at this time it's impossible for me. I've not had a vacation like this for more than six years.

If I plan ahead I can get most of the critical items done in less than an hour or so each day. A portable satellite Internet device allows me to extend my time away from "civilization" where otherwise I would be restricted to week-end only travel.

The equipment and megabyte usage is not cheap. I really had to cost justify the expense (to myself). In the end, this has allowed a freedom to roam that I thought would never be possible. I calculated that it would be less expensive to purchase vs. rent the equipment if I used it at least three times per year.

Before setting out on an adventure I need to prepare my laptop to use as few megabytes as possible. Remember, bandwidth is expensive for this type of service is expensive. In Windows, I disable all updates. Ant-Virus updates, Windows updates, software updates, and all other updates must be disabled before the trip to keep Internet usage to a minimum. I also disable web browser (Firefox, IE, etc.) graphics to reduce traffic on the satellite. In Windows Outlook, I disable all mail accounts except for business. I also disable attachments.

When using the system on a trip, I keep usage to business only. Since other web "surfing" wastes precious bandwidth usage and keeps me away from my main goal of enjoying my trip.

The service uses Inmarsat BGAN satellites. They have three geosynchronous satellites that provide nearly global coverage.

The system is quite easy to use. Some software needs to be installed on the laptop to aid in connection to the satellite and to track megabyte usage. This software also includes SMS text messaging capability. Between the satellite unit is an Ethernet cable. If you are in the market for one of these. I recommend only those units with Ethernet connections.

Here in Southern California, you use these approximate instructions to aim: 45 degrees elevation and 149 degrees South / South East.

Here is the unit connected to the satellite:
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Here are a couple photos of the whole system in use (Bow Willow campground, Anza Borrrego):
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You can see from the photos that it also includes telephone service. You can make or receive phone calls while simultaneously using internet from a computer.

Last October while on a week long trip on the Arizona Strip, north of the Grand Canyon, I used this system from inside my tent each night.

A quick video from Inmarsat:

New Land Cruiser Slotted Brakes from brakeperformance.com

I was about to buy slotted rotors from Man-A-Fre but they were out of stock at the time.

I wanted slotted rotors since I drive up and down a long and very steep hill several times a month. I opted against the cross-drilled because of clogging potential cracking.

I did some web searching and found BrakePerformance.com. They don't stock them, they build them to order. They shipped about 4 days after I ordered and since they are not far from my home they arrived the next day after shipping.

They worked out perfectly:

I used 100 series pads for replacements.

They've been on the truck for only 4 days. They are a huge improvement over the previous warped disks. I'm very satisfied with the braking power.

My rears need replacing also and I ordered slotted rear rotors from them today.

This was my first experience with cone washers. I finally had a use for my brass hammer. Here they are after a dozen or so hits with a brass hammer:

This was the first time since High School auto shop that I re-packed bearings. The passenger side appeared as if it had been a very very long time since re-packing. There was no unusual wear and all the bearings were in good shape.

Here are the brakes before the install, thin with noisy wear indicators:

All in all, this was easy with the help of the Factory Service Manual and ideas found on the IH8MUD forums. I like the Landtank method of setting pre-load.

Notes:

Brass Hammer here and Brass Drift here I first went to a local Hardware Store and OSH, neither had one.

1997 Land Cruiser rotor prices here

Man-A-Fre Land Cruiser FZJ80 Auxiliary Gas Tank Install

Back in October, I had scheduled a trip into the area north of the Grand Canyon called the Arizona Strip. This would be almost a week long with nearly 400 miles of driving off the pavement.

I needed better range than the stock tank and jerry cans.

I drove out to Man-A-Fre and picked up this kit: Man-A-Fre LONG RANGE 24 GALLON 80 SERIES AUXILLARY FUEL TANK

I scheduled an afternoon for the install. It took much longer, see below for more:

Photo of all the parts except for the tank:


Original filler neck needed to be cut to be removed. Note: you need to cut this carefully since part of the bottom is used to connect to the new filler. I disconnected it from the stock tank first before using a cutting wheel. First cut must take place while in the vehicle since it's shape prevents complete removal.


Filler removed:


Switch mechanism is hitting the inside of the fender preventing switching. MAF gave me a bad filler neck:


No worries, Spector off road is not too far away (from my home). I picked up two filler necks from Spector Off Road. The one on the left was ready to install but has no unleaded nozzle restrictor. The one on the right has the restrictor but the previous owner did some modification to it, so I need to get it fixed and installed before my next smog check.


Correct filler neck purchased from Spector Off Road on the left. Bad one from MAF on the right:


Photos of the tank installed. Note: It's a Kaymar Rear Bumper:



Aux tank guage. Manual pump switch to pump gas from the aux tank into the primary tank. When you turn on the pump the yellow indicator light is on. It's odd to see your main tank gauge start rising while you drive.


Pull out to fill the auxiliary tank. Push in to fill the primary tank.


The kit comes with a fuel pump that has no easy way of mounting. So I got a different electric fuel pump from NAPA Auto Parts, part P74019 for less than $50 since it included a better mounting solution. I mounted it near the drivers side rear spring using an existing threaded hole.

All in all, I'm extremely satisfied with how the system works. It's wonderful to have nearly 50 gallons of gas on board. It makes for less worrisome travel with the much longer range.

The system worked perfectly on the week long trip on the Arizona Strip.

Here is the LC in Arizona far away from any gas stations:

My Favorite Photos from our desert camping trips

Lava Tube in Mojave:
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Campfire:
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Death Valley Racetrack:
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Desert Big Horn Sheep:
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Morning at Seventeenmile Point:
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Another day on the trail:
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Ballarat:
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Desert Wildflowers:
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Forgotten Cemetery:
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Mojave Desert and Route 66

We camped at Seventeenmilepoint the first night:
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The next day we visited the Lava Tubes:
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The Cinder Mines:
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We drove about a 1/3 of the middle of the Mojave Road:
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We visited the Mojave mailbox and the Toad Shrine:
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We tasted a Coyote Melon. It was horrible!:
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We camped the 2nd night near the Beale mountains.

The 2nd day, Government Holes:
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Bert Smith Cabin
Rock Spring
Goffs and the Mojave Desert Heritage & Cultural Association
Amboy

In Bagdad we found this engine on a siding. The door was unlocked, we took a peek inside. The engine was not running, everything was turned on and ready to go:
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Then we located Mrs. Orcutt's Driveway:
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We finished the trip with Dinner at the Bagdad Cafe in Newberry Springs:
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Mounting Hi-Lift on front ARB bumper

I used Fourtreks mounts for mounting the Hi-Lift. I wanted to keep it low, and outside of the passenger compartment.

When I first installed it, I had it angled towards the front (see last photo) but the headlights reflected too much on the jack so now it's all the way on the top.

The photo below was on a 400+ mile week long trip in the area north of the Grand Canyon. The Fourtreks mount to the ARB was solid. Although I needed to add a little bit of Blue Locktight to the Billet Aluminum Wing Nuts to keep them tight. A lock washer would probably solve it was well.

This is what I ordered: Modular Hi-Lift Mounts (1.875" (1-7/8") diameter-With Billet Aluminum Wing Nuts

Wilderness Wireless Internet on OAUSA Tonight

Have you been somewhere, perhaps camping or traveling and you need Internet access or need to make a phone call? Your cell phone or EVDO card has no signal bars and Windows wireless networks is empty of hotspots?

Tonight I'll be discussing this topic on the Outdoor Adventure USA Amateur Radio net on the Keller Peak, California repeater (146.385+ PL 146.2) or on the Internet at Echolink node KE6TZG-L at 7:30pm (Pacific).

We'll discuss several different satellite Internet services, satellite phone services, the SPOT Satellite Messenger and some discussion of using Amateur Radio satellites.

Portable Satellite Internet

Long lines for the iPhone 3G at the Apple Store in Pasadena California

Many have been line all night waiting for the Apple Store to open. See the sleeping bag, that person was asleep when I took this photo:

Line for iPhone 3G

Line was all the way around the block:

Line for iPhone 3G

Windows blacked out before the store opening:

Line for iPhone 3G

Waiting in line at the ATT Store:

Line for iPhone 3G

Geese The Next Generation

My photo has just been posted in the LA Times Your Scene Section:


Next Generation